Tightwad at the Helm

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Tightwad is a full-time RV'er who has worked in the RV industry for 30 years. He has worked as an RV technician, RV Shop Manager, and RV Parts Department Manager. He's retired now, so don't bombard him with technical questions. He will however, share some of his hard earned knowledge with you in his column.

He has earned the well deserved nickname of "Tightwad" by searching for and discovering many ways to save money while pursuing the RV lifestyle. We thank him for his expert advice and constant help in our endeavors to share money saving tips and techniques with our readers.

Tightwad's Tech Tips
Don't miss this monthly favorite...

Questions People Always Ask Me
Over and over... and over...

Tightwad's Tech Tips
He's not strange folks...He just really likes his work!
These tips are in reference to common problems
RV'ers run into in this particular time of year.
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Spring Tips:

When you de-winterize your unit, don't forget to turn the bypass on the hot water heater back to normal operation... Unless you really need to take cold showers for some reason.

Have you cleaned the flue on your refrigerator lately? Well guess what... Manufacturers say it should be cleaned at least once a year to insure maximum cooling performance.

Are some of your gas appliances giving you trouble? Well you probably haven't had your gas pressure checked lately now have you? I knew it. This is a common problem I've run into. Have it checked once a year!

Do you smell propane every now and then? It could be from lighting your stove or whatever... BUT, it could be a gas leak! Have a gas test done by a reputable technician to determine if there is a leak.

Pack your wheel bearings every 10,000 miles - or - once a year... Whether you've been pulling your unit or not.

"My gas appliances aren't working for some reason!" In low temperatures, (below freezing) your propane regulator can freeze because of moisture in the propane. Ask your propane dealer if an anti-freeze additive has been added.

Is your hot water heater spitting and sputtering and hard to keep lit? Try cleaning that spider's web out of the burner tube. No he's not cooked... he just has a bad headache from the propane flowing through his nest.

Summer Tips:

Don't forget to cover up your heater vents with a screen mesh. If you don't, those pesky mud dobbers and wasps will clogg up the whole works. This also applies to most of your other vent openings that make dandy insect condos.

If you're having trouble keeping your trailer cool, you might try adding window awnings, or at least tinting the windows. the more direct sunlight shining through the windows, the harder it'll be to keep cool. You can even draw the shades.

Has your A/C been freezing up? No, it's probably NOT low on freon. Your filter is probably clogged up! If your condenser or evaporator can't breathe it will freeze.

Don't just peg the thermostat to the lowest position and leave it there all the time. The A/C has to "cycle" on and off or it'll freeze up. If it does freeze, turn the thermostat back 'till the compressor shuts off but the fan keeps runnin'. That'll thaw it out.

Fall Tips:

If you happen to be one of the poor suckers who stay in the cold part of the country and freeze your knees off... (PG version) Now is the time to winterize your RV. Most people will drain all the holding tanks, and then run non-toxic antifreeze through the lines. Be sure you have a water heater bypass installed, or you will be buying 6 to 10 gallons more antifreeze than you actually need.

Remove anything from the RV that can freeze and explode, like jars with liquid in them. Mrs. Tightwad learned this the hard way after not listening to me... hehehehe

Store your batteries indoors in a cool dry area. Do not store directly on the cement floor, raise them on a couple of 2 x 4's or put them on a shelf. Check the charge every month or so. If the batteries are stored on your RV, disconnect the terminal cables. This will prevent premature discharge of the batteries due to a ground in the electrical circuits or failure to turn a piece of electrical equipment off. Make sure your batteries are fully charged. If the batteries become discharged, the electrolyte can freeze when stored below freezing temperatures.

Turn off 12 Volt / 110 Volt / propane to the refrigerator; defrost, clean; Use crumpled newspaper in the refrigerator afterward to eliminate odors during storage. I have personally been knocked unconscious for several minutes from being smacked in the face by an obnoxious odor when opening a refrigerator for the first time in the spring.

Cover all outlets and openings (Furnace, exhaust) with Duct Tape to prevent the establishment of rodent residences.



Winter Tips:

If you plan on using an RV in weather that's below freezing, it would be wise to invest in a unit with enclosed, heated holding tanks. (aka: "all season") You can as a last resort install heat blankets on the holding tanks themselves.

Heating an RV in the winter requires an adequate LP gas
supply. LP gas tanks should be full for extended cold weather trips. RVers should also make sure only propane is used in the tanks, not butane. Butane will not work in temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fill up your Fuel Tank (this prevents the buildup of moisture during the winter months in your fuel tank - possibly add Fuel Line Anti Freeze)

Winter campers should select a sunny campsite over a
shady one, near a wind break if possible. Park with
either the front or rear of the RV into the wind. It is wise
to make reservations ahead to ensure the campground is
open. This'll save you the time of having to break someone's neck in the cold weather.

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Questions People Always Ask Me
There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers...
Some of these are pretty basic, so if you're a seasoned
veteran, you're going to be really bored.
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What is the difference between a "Class A" and a "Class C" etc?

These are terms for motorhomes, a "Class A" is the big ole sucker. Actually it can be smaller but it has a squared off or rounded front end, and kinda looks like a big shoe box.

The "Class C" or "Mini Home" is built on a van chassis and traditionally has the cabover bed overhang (this is the technical term) that's usually filled with screaming kids looking out the front window as it drives down the road.

The lesser known, and in my opinion lesser useful "Class B" is basically a van with a humped up roof that you still have to stoop over when you walk around in. Sometimes the sides are expanded to make it look like it's holding it's breath or something, but rarely does it have the highly technical cabover bed overhang thing.

Which is better, a 5th Wheel or a Travel Trailer?

Actually they both have their own advantages. Let me count the ways...

Most full timers, (people who live all, or almost all the time in their R.V.) choose a 5th wheel. They are generally built higher off the ground which allows what's called a "basement" for storage. Don't go in here in the event of a tornado! Run calmly screaming through the campground until you find a nice muddy ditch to lie in.

A 5th wheel is more maneuverable. (I hope I spelled that right). Because it hitches in the middle of the truck's bed, the tongue weight is placed over the rear axle. This helps it to tow easier and makes it able to turn sharper. When towing a 5th wheel, always swing a little wider than usual when you make your turns, or you'll be buying a lot of traffic signs.

A Travel Trailer hitches to the bumper (or the general bumper region) of the tow vehicle.

Many first timers choose a travel trailer because they're generally a little less money than a comparable 5th wheel. They can also be towed behind a van or even a car.

Some older R.V.'ers choose a travel trailer because it's all built on one level. That means no stairs to climb when getting in and out of the bedroom or bathroom like you would have in a 5th wheel. I personally find it easier to wake up by falling down a small flight of stairs... But that's just me.

There are many other differences and advantages to each but I'm already getting typer's cramp. If you need to know more on this subject just e-mail me.

What are the advantages of a Pull Unit vs. a Motorized Unit?

To Motor Home or not to Motor Home... That is the question. This is one of the more perplexing paradoxes man has ever put a brain cell to... Or lack of brain cells in some cases.

Some people tell me they like motor homes because they don't have to buy a tow vehicle. Then I see them a month later with a car clamped on the back of their motor home. Sounds like they just bought a $70,000 tow vehicle to pull a $2000 Yugo.

Actually, you need to be aware that if you choose to purchase a motor home, you will probably want to pull a small vehicle to drive around in once you get to wherever it is you're going. Unless you enjoy trying to find a forty foot long parking space at the local grocery store.

With a 5th wheel or a travel trailer you can always unhook your tow vehicle and cruise to your hearts content. But, be aware of the fact that you'll be cooped up in a car or truck whenever you're driving to wherever it is you'll be camping.

Bottom line... Once you get there a 5th wheel or travel trailer is detachable and probably more roomy. You also have only one motor to maintain and service.

The other bottom line... Getting there is half the fun in a motor home. Besides, did you ever try to microwave a gas station cheeseburger at sixty miles an hour in a Suburban?

         If your needing a loan or refinancing for an RV you might try a place called Best Rate Loans for RVs. They consistently have the best rates I've found. I've used 'em three times and been happy as a clam every time.



Happy R.V.' ing

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